Electronic Ignition

[mistral66]

I would like to install an electronic ignition system in my '68 280SL (Euro Version)and am curious about the effective differences in installing an optically driven (Crane) system versus magnetically driven system (Pertronix), in terms of ease of installation and reliability. Will the Bosch blue coil suffice for either system,and are the OEM ballast resistors (silver & blue) adequate.

[Naj ✝︎]

Michael

Do a search on 'Electronic Ignition'

Plenty to read

naj

68 280SL

[Raymond]

Can't speak for the Pertronics.  I just installed the Crane XR-700-0231 and it took just under two hours. (Mostly because anytime I unbolt anything I feel compelled to clean it.) I mounted the module on the triangular part of the battery support bracket.  

It's easy to set-up and the instructions are thoroughly helpful.
I bought mine through JEGS for $95.00.

I don't believe the blue coil is your best choice.  I have the Red coil (26,000 volts) and the 1.8 ohm ballast which Crane said was well within their requirements.  Of course, Crane would sell you their products as well.  Coils and resistors aren't that expensive.

Took the car for a ride yesterday and drove it to town today.  Ignition works perfectly all the way up and down the RPM.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[rwmastel]

Or specifically on 'Crane' or 'Pertronix'.  Yes, lots to read!

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[bpossel]

I recently upgraded to the Pertronix Ignitor II, with Ignitor II coil and Pertronix wires (required with Ignitor II).  Install took about 2o minutes.  Overall very happy.
Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[bpossel]

Hi All,

With discussion again on timing, I was wondering what the reality is with our group on timing for those using electronic ignitions?

While Pertronix states to set timing as per the std MB specs, and set the plug gap a bit wider, what is the reality with the group?

What is your timing set using Pertronix (I or II); Crane; 123ignition; other?

What is your spark plug gap set to?

Thanks,
Bob


bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[al_lieffring]

quote:Originally posted by bpossel

Hi All,

With discussion again on timing, I was wondering what the reality is with our group on timing for those using electronic ignitions?

While Pertronix states to set timing as per the std MB specs, and set the plug gap a bit wider, what is the reality with the group?

What is your timing set using Pertronix (I or II); Crane; 123ignition; other?

What is your spark plug gap set to?

Thanks,
Bob


bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

Bob

Are you using the pertronics kit to trigger the Bosch TSZ system on your 71 SL ?  Or do you have it connected directly to a non-TSZ  coil?

I installed the pertronics I kit (1864 LA) with the 1.5 ohm (40001)Flame Thrower coil and the original (Bosch) 1.8 ohm resistor.

I have the plugs gapped at .032 but I did give the timing an extra 6deg. advance (36deg at 3000rpm), it was floating at around 2000-2500rpm and this helped smooth it out.

When HEI started showing up on production cars the diameter of the distributor caps was also increased to prevent the the higher voltage from jumping to the wrong cylinders. So I would be reluctant increasing the plug gap much higher. Because with the stock Bosch cap it would be easy the get the firing voltage above the limits it can handle.

Al



66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[Naj ✝︎]

Al,

 

quote: it was floating at around 2000-2500rpm and this helped smooth it out.

Please explain floating... :oops:  :oops:  :oops:

naj

68 280SL

[bpossel]

I have the standard MB transistorized module & ballast resistors completely removed from my car (boxed up and stored for a future owner).

I have the Pertronix II Ignitor with the Ignitor II Coil and Pertronix Spark Plug cables (as per Pertronix recommendation).  Using Bosch W8DC spark plugs, gapped at .040.

Timing is set at ~5 degrees BTDC at idle (~800 rpm) in order to get ~25 degrees BTDC at 3,000 rpms.  I may want to advance more?

  Still working out idle in gear...  this continues to be a big challenge for me!  Cant figure this out?

New everything (2 way valve, vacuum lines, 17 & 100 degree switch, rebuilt distributor, vacuum dashpot, injection pump thermo, and more...)

When I recently replaced the 17 degree switch it cured my cold idle.  Now when engine is cold, it idles at ~1,100 rpms, then drops to ~800 when warm (in neutral).

Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[hands_aus]

Hey Bob,

Your timing could be different depending on the distributor model.

My 250sl .... 051 distributor is a retard type with timing spes of 2 +/- 2 ATDC at idle with vacuum

I installed the Pertronix Ignitor 1 (1864 LA with white dot on magnet) using the existing blue coil and 0.9 ohm ballast resistor and with condenser disconnected.  

Timing is set at 3 ATDC at idle with vacuum. The BBB says this is the only way to set up the 250SL engine.
The 3000 rpm at 30 BTDC check can be made.

Plug gap is set at 0.040" on Bosch W7DC

Car runs like a rocket.
The JoeA test for air/fuel mixture has allowed me to fine tune the engine.

In the past I have replaced the Inj pump thermostat, cleaned /adjusted the throttle valve and cleaned/adjusted eliminated all play in all the linkage rods, replaced all vacuum hoses, cleaned the Inj pump air filter, changed the Inj pump oil.

Changes I have made to help with starting.
1. installed 1 second time relay.
2. installed ballast resistor by-pass relay

Economy has changed from 9 mpg to 17.5 mpg around town with 21 mpg highway.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[bpossel]

Hi Bob Smith,

You're right.  In deed, depending on which of the many different distributors that MB installed, and that you have, timing is set differently.

I have the "0 231 185 009 JFU6 (Bosch PN)" aluminum distributor in my '71 280sl.

What I was wondering from this group is...  if you have changed to a Crane, Pertronix, 123ignition, other...  are you running with the timing set per the BBB (MB Spec for your specific distributor) or have you set it up with different timing specs to make your engine run better at both idle and higher rpms?

Mine seems to be running good at the higher rpms, but idle in gear seems to have a bit of a problem.  Once in a while, at a stop light, in gear and at idle, it almost dies out but then recovers again.  Idle in gear is currently ~800 rpms....  This is spuratic and I cant get a handle on it.  I am almost tempted to just replace the entire distributor & the Pertronix II setup with a "123ignition distributor".  David Brough has had good success with this...

ps. Had the top down today (1st time since Oct) on the way home from work.  Currently 65 degrees in Memphis, TN.   Boy was this nice!!!

Thanks,
Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[Kenneth Gear]

Here is a useful link you may want to check out.  While it talks about a Petronix on a Ponton, I think the procedure is the same.

http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/ignitionpert/ignitionpert.htm

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red

[hands_aus]

Hi Bob
Here is a thread on distributors worth reading
http://index.php?topic=2347&whichpage=3

Personally I would try setting the timing to 'specs' with the Pertronix unit installed. What have you got to lose?

Remember you can't change the dwell as it is set by the Pertronix unit. You can change the idle timing and air/fuel mixture.

I find if the fuel mix is too rich on my car it runs very poorly. Similarly if it is too lean, the same thing happens.

My 250sl runs great set to 'specs', gives good fuel economy and is very torquey.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[bpossel]

Hi Bob,

Today went back over all of my linkage adjustments; timing; vacuum; etc...  and here is my current setup using Pertronix II (with Pertronix coil & cables)...

Timing:
10 degrees BTDC @ 800 rpm (idle in Park)
20 degrees BTDC @ 2000 rpm
30 degrees BTDC @ 3000 rpm  (only way to get 30 BTDC is to have idle set to 10 degrees BTDC)

With my vacuum gage t'd in my readings are: 21 Hg (800rpm idle)
Good site on reading vacuum http://www.s10blazers.com/vacuumtest.htm

 :?: Is this normal: When I slowly accelerate to 3000 rpm (in Park), vacuum remains at ~21.  When push fast on the accelerator and jump it to 3000 rpm (in Park), I see the vacuum drop to ~0.

Bob


bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[hands_aus]

Hi Bob,
I suggest you have a long read of that other thread and follow the link to a subsequent thread also about distributors and ignition systems.
I have just had a browse through it and there seems to lots of reference to your type of distributor.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[bpossel]

Thanks Bob!

I re-read the posts and dont see a clear answer, direction, other than maybe to replace my 009 with a 051?

I drove the car today and with the current setting, the car seemed to drive nicely.  No ping, no sputter, and decent pick-up from a stopped position.

So far so good....

Thanks again for everyones response to this posting!
Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320