Exhaust ?

[bpossel]

Hi All!

Got bored again, so pulled my manifolds off to have them cleaned and powder coated.

My current exhaust system is a mix of stainless and rusted steel[:0].  The down-pipes are rusted steel, while the mid section and end section are stainless.  There is a sticker on the mid muffler “Ansa”.

I want to replace the down-pipes with stainless and make it look as nice as the rest of the system .

 :?: My questions are:

1. Should I go the route of custom bending at a local muffler shop?
2. Should I contact Time Valve or other muffler mfg. and order the stainless down-pipes?
3. Should I just replace the entire system with a Time Valve because I will not be able to get the right fit between the 2 different system?
4.Do I need to weld the new with the old (currently entire system is welded) or can I use a clamp to hold the new down-pipes to the old system?

Thanks in advance for your input and advice!
Bob

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bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[Jonny B]

Would a call to Time Valve to see what they recommend be of any value? I have a regular system, so cannot offer what might be fit and cut alternatives. It would seem that the where and how of cutting the existing system would be a question for a local (and trusted) place of business.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[J. Huber]

Bob, any trouble getting old pipes off the manifold? I've heard this can be challenging. My front pipes look a lot like yours -- the only part of my system that is original.

James
63 230SL

[bpossel]

Hello James, Jonny,

I unscrewed the down pipes from the manifolds first.  Bolts were very rusty, but with some "Deep Creep", they came off without breaking.

I then loosened the entire muffler system by removing all of the rubber donuts.  As the system lowered in the rear, it broke free from the manifold, no issues.  I then removed the manifold.  Lastly, to get the muffler out of the engine bay area, I had to remove the idler bolt and swing the arm out of the way.  Also disconnected the steering damper.  With a little maneuvering, got the entire system out from under the car.  At this point if I dont cut the old rusted section off and re-install with new down pipes, clamping it to the old, not sure how I would get the entire system back in again...

What is really needed is a lift to get the car up high.  Too late now that I have the old system out.

I did talk to TimeValve today.  They can supply 2 new down-pipes along with sleeves to connect them to the old system.  I may go this route....?

Bob


bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[glennard]

Bob, Is 'Deep Creep' better than PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench?   Where do you get it?

[bpossel]

Hi Glennard,

Yes, I have used PB Blaster and was a big fan of it, until a friend introduced me to Deep Creep.  Deep Creep seems to be a lot better.  Seems to eat the rust much quicker, and is also clear, not orange!
I bought it at AutoZone, but I am sure its other places as well.
When I put some on my very rusted down-pipe bolts/nuts, I was expecting to have to wait overnight before loosening.  Ended up waiting only ~10 minutes and the nuts came off very easily.
Bob

quote:Originally posted by glennard

Bob, Is 'Deep Creep' better than PB Blaster and/or Liquid Wrench?   Where do you get it?

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320