Author Topic: Driveshaft carrier rupture (Read 11151 times)

waltklatt · « **on:** July 23, 2007, 10:00:25 »

The angony of it all![

!]
Just took my 220SL out for a spin yesterday and on the way the driveshaft carrier just ruptured. No noise or hints to it's failure before the catastrophy. I felt under the car in the opening and the driveshaft was hanging down in there. Rubber bushings still good, but the aluminum bracket was gone.
Not only that, the gearshift is also gone, no linkages or anything. Gear is still in place as the speedo still runs while idling.
Had the car towed by a kind feller with a pickup truck and a tow rope. The entire 5 miles back, the drive shaft was banging around un the tunnel. Later drove my other car and saw pieces of aluminum on the floor, remnants of the carrier.

I checked out everything for snugness and lubricated it all up before, when the clutch slave was replaced, that was about 3 weeks ago.

Has anyone had this problem before?

Now at the crossroads of weather to give it up or fix it.

Walter
1967 220SL-diesel-bad car!

Douglas · « **Reply #1 on:** July 23, 2007, 10:36:02 »

Sorry to hear the bad news, Walter. This happened to Michael Salemi awhile back, as I recall.

Douglas Kim
New York
USA

rwmastel · « **Reply #2 on:** July 23, 2007, 13:50:29 »

Wow, that stinks! I'm glad no body got hurt in the process. I don't know much about drive shafts, but I would assume that something was out of center-line because it was only 3 weeks since maintenance in that general area.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420

al_lieffring · « **Reply #3 on:** July 23, 2007, 14:29:47 »

From what I recall from your previous posts, you have the engine and trans from a 201 chassis, and I am not quite shure how, but the drive shaft was somehow adapted to fit that trans, so component misalignment is a strong possibility.
Should you put it back togherer? My opinion, a diesel engine in a roadster would have never been my first choice.
Find an old 108- 250 or 280se and use the components to get it closer back to original. Or shoe-horn in an American V8.

Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank

waltklatt · « **Reply #4 on:** July 24, 2007, 07:36:09 »

Doug, Rodd, Al,
Thanks for your concerns. And yes, I'm glad everything is still safe.
The culprit was the bearing for the driveshaft carrier. Completely siezed up and the speed I was going caused it to rupture and then it proceeded to tear the flex disc out.
I will put it all back together with new parts when I can get them.
Al, I have done this conversion to a W108 sedan and it never gave me any problems for over 8K miles. This convertible has a similiar setup and it's causing me numerous problems. Maybe it's because I dont drive it much or.....a lemon.
BTW: what is this jonesing for a gas tank thing?
Walter
1967 220SL-shelved for now.

al_lieffring · « **Reply #5 on:** July 24, 2007, 08:30:25 »

quote:
Originally posted by waltklatt

Al,
BTW: what is this jonesing for a gas tank thing?
Walter
1967 220SL-shelved for now.

Many years ago there was a porter that worked at our shop in Kansas City, In the dialect he spoke, there were three states of "be"

"he be a wigg'n" (angry) origin, "flipped his wig"
"he be a chees'n" (happy) origin, "say cheese"
"he be a jones'n" (desiring) origin on this one seems a bit hazy, possibly, "keeping up with the Joneses"

So I be a long'n, a desire'n and a covet'n a replacement for my rusty gas tank.

Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank

waltklatt · « **Reply #6 on:** July 24, 2007, 08:52:34 »

Ahh, I get it now, so you've got this desire for a new tank?
Mind you a 17 gallon one, or the 21 gallon one?
I've got a good used 17 gallon one in the shed.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel-shelved for now.

quote:
Originally posted by al_lieffring
So I be a long'n, a desire'n and a covet'n a replacement for my rusty gas tank.

TheEngineer · « **Reply #7 on:** July 24, 2007, 12:06:27 »

IMHO These cars are the most beautiful to look at. They are small, but spaceous with a good sized trunk. They are equally good looking with the hardtop or the softtop or open. I recently was considering buying this Lexus 430 and found that I like the appearance of my 280SL much better. But engines and transmissions have improved and I could see a benefit in installing a modern engine if the existing one were to become unfit. So, if you were happy with the diesel and if the body is fine, stick with it!

'69 280SL,Signal Red,Automatic,retired engineer, West-Seattle,WA

George Des · « **Reply #8 on:** July 24, 2007, 12:17:14 »

Walter,

As you may recall, I blew out a flex disk about two years ago after only about 2000 miles or so. It only gave a few minutes warning, but it did not completely break through and I was able to very slowly limp on home w/o any driveshaft or bearing carrier damage. When I got in an took a good look underneath, it appeared that the transmission was sitting slightly higher than it should have been and put some undo stress on the flex disc. I fixed this by putting in a slightly lower shim beween the transmission and its fixing bolt. Sounds like your problem may have been precipitated by some similar mis-alignment.

George Des

waltklatt · « **Reply #9 on:** July 24, 2007, 13:57:02 »

quote:
Originally posted by George Des

Sounds like your problem may have been precipitated by some similar mis-alignment.
George Des

George,
Yes, i think this is the real case of the problem. I will check everything out one I put the new one back together. Also think there was an old vibration in the driveshaft from before, also think the driveshaft was bent from the previous accident. So a new one is in order.
Anyone out there with an old W113SL driveshaft they would be willing to part with?
Thanks,
Walter

George Des · « **Reply #10 on:** July 24, 2007, 19:28:41 »

Walt

I was just about to ask you if you had a front 230Sl driveshaft in your stash! As you recall, I have the ZF 5 Speed and I may pull it out temporarily to do some repair work on the back cover where I have a small leak due to a cracked pinch joint where the speedo cable connects. I have a 4 speed manual with all connecting linkage except the front driveshaft--the front driveshaft used with the ZF is shorter than that used on the 4 speed. My plan was to put the 4 speed in while I have the work done on the ZF. No, no, no, the ZF is not for sale!!!

George Des

Wally · « **Reply #11 on:** July 24, 2007, 21:37:34 »

quote:
Originally posted by al_lieffring

From what I recall from your previous posts, you have the engine and trans from a 201 chassis, and I am not quite shure how, but the drive shaft was somehow adapted to fit that trans, so component misalignment is a strong possibility.
Should you put it back togherer? My opinion, a diesel engine in a roadster would have never been my first choice.
Find an old 108- 250 or 280se and use the components to get it closer back to original. Or shoe-horn in an American V8.

Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank

Wally · « **Reply #12 on:** July 24, 2007, 21:45:01 »

Hey Al, I am just getting done shoe horning a Chevy LT1 into my 71 SL. Its 80 lbs. lighter, does not leak numerous fluids, starts and runs always and gets much better gas mileage. Not for the faint of heart though and it helps to have a welding shop, machine shop and body shop at hand. I have a complete MB drive line left over if anyone needs parts. See ya.

waltklatt · « **Reply #13 on:** July 25, 2007, 07:29:00 »

George, Yes I do have a complete manual driveshaft from a 1966 230SL, but it's not the same as my 67 220SL. The 66 has the splined adjustment slider behind the carrier bearing, while the 67 has it in front. You are more than welcome to it for a while. No cost, just a drive to my place to pick it up.
Let me know when you'd like to pick it up.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel-shelved for now.

quote:
Originally posted by George Des

Walt
I was just about to ask you if you had a front 230Sl driveshaft in your stash!

George Des · « **Reply #14 on:** July 25, 2007, 07:55:34 »

Walt,

Thanks for the reply and the offer. Will let you know. The job is on the "to do" list, but maybe in a little while. Any good stuff in the slavage yards lately?
George>

erickmarciano · « **Reply #15 on:** July 25, 2007, 12:43:07 »

how hard is it to replace that bearing?
thanks

2004 Volvo V70-R
1971 280sl
1962 VW bug
1971 Harley FLH
1962 gs160 vespa

mdsalemi · « **Reply #16 on:** July 25, 2007, 14:40:57 »

Sorry Walt--

I had something similar happen right after restoration. Never figured out exactly what happened, but there was a literal explosion (I was accelerating through 60 MPH) and the gearshift broke; the driveshaft bent, all kinds of broken metal underneath, even destroyed the transmission case. Sounds like your transmission is OK though.

Since it is a unique project car, I'd say keep poking at it.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
President, International Stars Section
Mercedes-Benz Club of America

waltklatt · « **Reply #17 on:** July 26, 2007, 09:20:41 »

quote:
Originally posted by mdsalemi

Since it is a unique project car, I'd say keep poking at it.

Michael,
I will keep trying to get it right. But for now, it's back to the search for the parts that I need to fix it again. The motor and transmission are fine, knocking on wood. Seems to me that the engine and tranny will outlast the car, knowing the longetivity of the diesels.
Also working on the house to fix and remodel things.
Thanks,
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel-shelved for now.

jeffc280sl · « **Reply #18 on:** September 19, 2007, 19:47:00 »

While redoing my clutch and transmission decided based on Walter's experience to replace the center drive shaft bearing. Pretty easy job at this point because the transmission and bell housing are out. The front section of the drive shaft has to be removed. Once this is done you need to remove 2ea 13mm bolts that hold the bracket in place in the tunnel. Before I removed the bolts I marked the location of the bracket so that I could return it to the same position once a new bearing was installed. You need to remove a C clip and then gently pry the entire bracket and donut ring off the rear drive shaft section. Once it is removed there is another C clip which must be removed to push the bearing out.

I recommend doing this job any time you are working on the drive shaft/flex ring/clutch/transmission or rear axle. It is a $10 part.

Here are some pics.

Download Attachment:

drvshft.jpg
21.63 KB

Download Attachment:

drvshftbear.JPG
68.75 KB

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

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Author Topic: Driveshaft carrier rupture (Read 11151 times)

Douglas

al_lieffring

al_lieffring

George Des

George Des

Wally

Wally

George Des

jeffc280sl