Author Topic: center instrument cluster  (Read 3933 times)

Cabo Bill

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center instrument cluster
« on: August 16, 2007, 11:23:59 »
I was planning to have my speedometer and tachometer rebuilt at palo alto speedometer I'm wondering if anyone has any advice about taking in the center cluster as well. It works fine now, and I haven't disconnected the oil pressure or water temperature fittings,so I'm not sure the risk of damage is worth it. Also,should I replace the seedo and tach cables or just lube them. I'm going to replace the dash bulbs. thanks Bill 71 280 SL

rwmastel

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2007, 12:13:31 »
Bill,

Hi.  I wonder what the cosmetic condition of your center cluster is.  When the other instruments come back, they should look like brand new.  Will this conflict with the other instruments or componenets of the dashboard?  I imagine it's like repainting a car with "average" chrome.  The less then perfect chrome doesn't stand out until the paint is new.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

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Cabo Bill

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2007, 14:08:08 »
Rodd-Thanks for the reply :) I was going to use a product called  "NEVR-DULL" on the chrome around the gauges-I didn't know that the shop would shine the chrome as well, I will ask them. Thanks Bill 71 280 SL

Cees Klumper

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2007, 14:55:31 »
I would expect Palo Alto to replace the chrome bezels with new ones.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
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1990 Ford Bronco II

ja17

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2007, 16:21:53 »
Here is the sequence I always use in removing the instruments;

Remove the steering wheel, it comes of easily and makes the job so much easier. No puller required, just pop the center pad off and use a 22mm socket with extension to remove the nut. Note the slash mark on the end of the steering column, this indexes the installation position of the steering wheel during re-assembly. Next remove the cardboard dash under panel and the upholstered lower dash panel (three Phillips screws). Next remove the electrical plug terminal bracket by unfastening the two phillips screws and move it out of the way. Reach you hand up through the new opening and pull the small defroster vent tube off and out of the way. Unscrew the tachometer cable. Unscrew the thumbscrew holding the tachometer in place. Remove the tach after popping out the two light bulb assemblies. After the tach is removed you have easy access to the thumbscrews holding the center cluster in place. You will need to unfasten the 10mm oil pressure line before removing the center cluster from the dash. The temperature gauge line is not a wire but a small capillary tube. Handle it with care. If the tube is crimped or broken the gauge will no longer function. To continue, remove the small slotted screw at the top back of the cluster. This will allow you to remove the back of the center cluster and you will be able to unfasten the temp gauge and leave it connected in the dash. Be careful when you re-install this, if you do not have the shaft for the dimmer lined up with the knob you can break the glass when you tighten down the slotted screw. Check  the dimmer and treat it with some contact cleaner and lube (radio shack) while you have this out. At this point you have easy access to the speedometer and ignition switch if you they need service.

Be sure not to srart the engine while the oil pressure gauge is disconnected, you and your pagoda will get an oil bath! During re-assembly pay attention that the brown ground wire with the ring terminal is placed under the tachometer and speedometer thumbscrews before installation of their brackets, or their lights will not work. Check the lighting before you put everything back together!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
« Last Edit: August 16, 2007, 16:26:53 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

merrill

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2007, 16:49:08 »
I sent PA the speedo,tach, center guage and clock.
all came back looking great

for me it was well worth the effort. I did not want to have to r/r the gages again,  the job is not fun.

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

pablo_o2

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2007, 12:19:24 »
I've read sometimes when the rheostat is not working you can bypass it. Is there somebody who ever did the job? I want to bypass mine as it is broke. Thanks

Paul Haems
'68 280SL

Cabo Bill

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Re: center instrument cluster
« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2007, 15:24:24 »
Hi-I wanted to thank Joe, Matt,Cees,and Rodd for the info. I started this project because my ignition switch was bad-sure wish that I had Joes info then! Anyway I did take all the gauges in to PA. Once they are back I will try to find out why I have no spark. Thanks again. Bill 71 280 SL