Author Topic: Rustproofing  (Read 4587 times)

Cees Klumper

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Rustproofing
« on: February 27, 2003, 00:20:12 »
One topic I have seen very little discussion/information on, is rustproofing. What should be done in the way of regular preventative maintenance? Can we do it ourselves? What kind of products to use? Special tools necessary? There is a place here in the Netherlands that is completely specialized in rustproofing but I have not decided I want to go there (sort of like being afraid to go to the dentist so I won't find out I have a cavity)

All suggestions appreciated,

Cees

'69 white 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Tom

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Re: Rustproofing
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2003, 06:51:45 »
Cees,

I bought a case of stuff called FluidFilm that comes in various forms, including a penetrating aerosol.  It is lanolin based.  It prevents rust from starting and stops rust from spreading.  It is used alot in the marine industry.

I will find some material on where to rust proof a w113-there are designated holes for treating the internal body cavities.
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

ja17

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Re: Rustproofing
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2003, 19:53:12 »
These cars were not protected as well as cars today. I remember new 113s used as every day cars from new, would last about seven or eight years before first rust would start showing. Our winters in Ohio are not that severe, however salt is used on the roads. Eventually left unchecked water and salt will attack floorpans and enter unibody frame channels causing severe rust damage. The Eastwood Co. has a lot of interesting restoration and rust control products  http://www.eastwoodco.com .  I used to renew the factory undercoating after repairs with the Sikkens (spelling?) body shutz. I was told it was the original product used by Mercedes? It was water based and when sprayed on by the special body shutz gun the texture was identical to the factory finish. It was very tough. Of coarse all rust must be cleaned, nuetralized, and painted before re-undercoating with body shutz.  Extensive frame and floor pan work is very difficult when working from below. So I developed a simple system to suspend cars sideways for frame and floor pan restorations back in the 70's. In later years Tim Kidder of K & K began restoring undercariages and producing good quality replacement frame and pan parts which are better than original since they are zinc plated to resist rust. I believe K&K supplies nearly all of the aftermaket Mercedes floor and pan parts sold today.



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Richard Madison

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Re: Rustproofing
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2003, 20:16:56 »
I have rust experience (unfortunately) from the two '66 Mustangs I used to own. The biggest challenge of rust is to find it all...sometimes what you see is not what you get, there is usually a lot more unseen rust lurking under numerous parts. The main areas for 113's are the wheel wells especially the front just behind the headlight housings (it can rust right though the top of the fender)...also the strut support at the top of the wheel well can get almost entirely eaten up...also along the engine compartment walls near the fender join area, and of course under the trunk mat and the floor pans...

If the part is not too far gone, I would clean it up with a wire brush, then use either Corroless or POR 15. Corroless means "Less Corrosion". POR 15 means Paint Over Rust.  These products change rust chemically to an inert form. POR 15 seems to do a great job giving long lasting protection. As Joe mentioned, one or both of these is available from Eastwood...  
I guess the best rust solution is to get a California car, and keep it in California!
Richard M :o)
« Last Edit: February 27, 2003, 20:22:57 by 280SL71 »
1969 280 SL, Tunis Beige, Euro Model (Italy).

Ben

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Re: Rustproofing
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2003, 03:58:48 »
I cleaned down the entire underside of my '64 and was pleasantly reassured that everything was in good condition. As I planned to use the car very regularly in typical Irish weather I wanted to ensure it remained good.

Once cleaned I applied the underseal in three coats, leaving 24hrs between each. I then bought Waxoyl in both Aerosol and Injector form and used it liberally everywhere I could find. I didn't drill any holes, I was reluctant to do so, but I feel there may be something further I should do. Is there a way that is generally accepted as the best thing to do, i.e are there factory holes I should spray into ?

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

n/a

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Re: Rustproofing
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2004, 11:21:39 »
Hi Cees,
Just looking back at some intersting topics in the past and came across
yours about rust proofing and remembered when only the otherday while
looking for those sodding nuts I met a very intersting fellow in Liverpool who restores old cars like our pagodas and he said that mine
had a rust proofing done on it buthe called it by a name which I can't
recall but I'll find out, he said it was one of the best jobs he had
ever seen, He has said he will try to teach me some of the lost arts
like lead filling and silver welding, he's restoring an aston martin
DB5 for a client at the moment and he also has an aeroplane above his
workshop which he has been building since 1976 nearly finished it Too.
an amazing guy.

 Pagoda Red

red kelly