Side Window Questions

[bpossel]

Hi All!

As I removed my side window along with the window "transmission", guide rails, etc...  I have several questions...

Please refer to picture:


1. On my window, the upper chrome guide jaw is glued to the upper guide rail.  Is this correct?  Should it be gluded?
2. On my window, the 2 lower guide jaws are glued to the bottom of the glass.  Is this correct?  Should they be glued?
3. On my window, there is a piece of tape (masking, linen type tape) between the rear guide rail and the water trough.  Should there be tape between these pieces?  Maybe done to reduce vibration noise?

It seems to me that the plastic jaw inserts, along with the small stub screws would be enough to hold the side windows without any add'l glue?  

Thanks for the clarification on these questions.
Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[66andBlue]

Hello Bob:
Q1 & Q2: Yes, the jaws can be glued to the window to keep them in place for a longer time. But even then they tend to get loose with time.
Q3: Yes, there is a linen/cotton strip glued to both sides of the water channels.  I replaced the strips with waterproof bandage tape bought at a drugstore.



You should also take a look at the bar (#77 in your picture) that holds the window glass and replace the rubber strip that acts as a "cushion":





Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[Naj ✝︎]

Hello, Bob,

quote:1. On my window, the upper chrome guide jaw is glued to the upper guide rail. Is this correct? Should it be gluded?
2. On my window, the 2 lower guide jaws are glued to the bottom of the glass. Is this correct? Should they be glued?
3. On my window, there is a piece of tape (masking, linen type tape) between the rear guide rail and the water trough. Should there be tape between these pieces? Maybe done to reduce vibration noise?

It seems to me that the plastic jaw inserts, along with the small stub screws would be enough to hold the side windows without any add'l glue?

Thanks for the clarification on these questions.
Bob

1.Yes, the top front jaw is glued to the glass rail.

2. Yes, the 2 lower jaws are glued to the glass,with the linen type tape in-between, I guess to make a tight joint.

3. No, I believe there should be no tape between the glass and rail, or guide rail and water channel.  :oops:  (See Alfreds pix)
The plastic jaws do not hold the glass to the jaws (if you do this and tighten the screws, the glass will shatter - don't ask how I know!!): they slide up and down the rails and the stub screws are used to adjust the play between the jaws and the rail so the glass does not rattle.
The stub screws should be toward the inside of the door when refitted and there are holes in the water channels thru which the screws can be tightened/loosened to adjust free movement of the glass without rattles.

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naj

[66andBlue]

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bpossel

... It seems to me that the plastic jaw inserts, along with the small stub screws would be enough to hold the side windows without any add'l glue?...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Bob, you could also replace them with the guide kit sold by Ray Paul, that is what I did and I have no complaints. But note Mike Salemi's comments in this topic: http://www.sl113.com/forums/index.php?topic=4092

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[66andBlue]

quote:Originally posted by naj

...
3. No, I believe there should be no tape between the glass and rail, or guide rail and water channel. ..

Hi Naj,
the linen/cotton strip is between the water channel parts to prevent rattling, it does not touch the glass.  At least that is how the channels looked on my 230SL when I took them apart.

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:Originally posted by 66andBlue

quote:Originally posted by naj

...
3. No, I believe there should be no tape between the glass and rail, or guide rail and water channel. ..

Hi Naj,
the linen/cotton strip is between the water channel parts to prevent rattling, it does not touch the glass.  At least that is how the channels looked on my 230SL when I took them apart.

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

Hi, Alfred,

My 230 did not have these strips but then is was a '65 and it had been stripped before for a colour change so may have been removed.

Your car was probably original....

naj

68 280SL

[bpossel]

Thanks Alfred and Naj,

It is amazing how complex these windows and their internals are...
Lots of pieces and parts...

I am in the process of cleaning all of these pieces out of my car while the body is prepped for the repaint.

It's nice to have you guys and this great group of 113'ers.  What a great team of experts!

Thanks again!
Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[KevinC]

Hello Bob:
Q1 & Q2: Yes, the jaws can be glued to the window to keep them in place for a longer time. But even then they tend to get loose with time.
Q3: Yes, there is a linen/cotton strip glued to both sides of the water channels.  I replaced the strips with waterproof bandage tape bought at a drugstore.



You should also take a look at the bar (#77 in your picture) that holds the window glass and replace the rubber strip that acts as a "cushion":





Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

I have a couple of similar questions which why I am resurrecting this post... 1) Concerning the bar at the very bottom of each window, can I replace the original rubber strip with a double sided rubber tape designed for use outdoors? 2) I believe that a PO may have installed the guide jaws incorrectly (only one is in place currently, the others were at the bottom of the doors)....I am assuming that these should be set such that the adjustment screws should be accessible when the door panel is off, not facing inside the door? Might any one have a picture of the two jaws MOUNTED in place on their respective windows? ..And yes, I am aware that I have one tinted window and one not! Working on that, too!
   

[66andBlue]

Kevin,
(1) I would not use double-sided sticky tape because you do not want the rubber to stick to the glass also. Of course, after 40 years the glass is now baked onto that rubber/vinyl strip and hard to separate.
I'll check if I have some of the rubber material left over and if so I'll send you enough for the windows.
(2) Take a look at the photos here, I believe they show how the guides are glued to the glass:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9059.
And yes, the screws face into the cabin for adjustment.

[KevinC]

Great Alfred,

Thanks AGAIN!

Seeing that I already have the tape, how about if I just don't peel the backing off of the glass side?

Kevin

[66andBlue]

Kevin,
it depends on how thick the tape is.
When I replaced the rubber strips I wanted to match the thickness (about 1 mm) of the original strips since I wasn't sure how wide the slot is in which the window travels. Also on one side the rubber was ribbed to give it a bit of grip and for this reason I used a similar grip material that I bought from Grainger, see photo. The lower item is a single-sticky tape (0.75 mm thick) and you need two of them. Unfortunately I have nothing left but do have some of the grip mat on top.
Since I have a Grainger store close by I have them send the items to the shop to save shipping costs which in this case are higher than the item costs.

[KevinC]

Window jaw guides in place and windows re-installed. Great advice from Alfred (including the tubing idea to take the place of the rubber grommets. All adjustments made by Forum member Urban Janssen and now everything. Looks and works great!!!

Thanks gents.

[Larry & Norma]

I used a bicycle inner tube for the rubber strip, just cut to size and glue
onto the metal bracket. Works great.

[pablo_o2]

Haha that's fun, I did the same Larry. Works very good indeed