steering play

[hands_aus]

While doing a chassis grease I removed the front wheels one at a time, for easy access.

With my  hands on the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock positions I noticed the LH wheel had about 0.5- 1.0" play as I tried to move the wheel on a vertical axis through 12 and 6 o'clock.

I then tried the same thing about the horizontal axis through 3 and 9 o'clock and found no play.

I didn't try the RHS wheel.

I had the front disks replaced and the brakes rebuilt about 12 months ago with no mention from the repairer of any play in the steering.
I have travelled about 2000 miles since the work.

I took the car out this afternoon and there is no wandering and the tyres are no scrubbing off. It does not pull in either direction.


The local club is having a 'run' next weekend and I would like to go along.

My questions
Is the car safe to drive?

What do you think is the problem with the steering?

as always, all replies are welcome

Thanks

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[glennard]

Lift it up and wiggle it.  See what moves.  Replace it.  Usually, it is the tie rod end or stabilizer bar.  Sounds like it is safe for the near term-disclaimer here.

[mbshop]

as i understand you, you have play in the 12-6 oclock movement. this can indicate a bad kingpin. or other items in the suspension. no matter what this is too much and needs to be located and fixed for safety reasons.

george

[hands_aus]

Hey Glen and George,
Thanks for your replies.

With the front of the car on stands I could see that the drag link connection on the power steering arm is loose/worn.
It seems that the ball joints are not removable.  Do you know if they can be rebuilt? If not I intend to replace the complete drag link unit, part number A110 460 02 05

I can see the split pins and castellated nuts are both in place, do I re-use them? Once I have the nuts removed are there any tricks to separate the drag link ball joints from their connections?

I would not have known about this if I wasn’t doing the 6 monthly grease and oil change plus lubricate the distributor oil wick. They have been done, but I still have to change the Injection pump oil and try out my home made brake pressure bleeder.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[mbzse]

Originally posted by hands_aus

.../...Once I have the nuts removed are there any tricks to separate the drag link ball joints from their connections?

Bob and Forum,
You need a good quality joint puller tool. I personally use a Kamasa K6070  (Lowest picture below).

 I also enclose a pic of the M-B official tool (which I deem to be a bit clumsy)

/Hans in Sweden

[al_lieffring]

Bob and all

The tool Hans posted a link to is designed to remove a ball joint without damaging the rubber boots, this realy isn't a problem when the draglink is being replaced, a simple "pickle fork" tool
http://www.otctools.com/products/detail.php?id=2290
is all that would be needed to remove the drag link. the tools tapered tines are placed between the link and the steering arm and driven between the two with a hammer.

Whenever I replaced a drag link I found that most of the time the steering shock was bad too, so you should plan on ordering both the drag link and the steering shock as a set.



Al Lieffring
66 230SL

[hands_aus]

Hans and Al,

Thanks for your replies.

Al, I have seen a similar tool in my local auto parts store.
I will look into it.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto