Suspension change

[JamesL]

Looking to change all four corners - shocks and springs.

How difficult is this job? What special tools do I need? Anything else I should do while I am about it (other than the rubber...)?

Thanks

[Khurram Darugar]

Tosh the rear is pretty easy and for me all screwed right off, (plenty of wd40).  I used a spring compressor only for the compensator spring.  The front was more difficult for me because i could not get the lower king pin bolt out.  In fact i made a bit of a mess out of it  :oops:  shearing the bolt.  My car was still on its original kingpins.  I would change the rubber pads for the springs, the sway bar bushings,  trailing bar and arm bushings, And basically any other rubber bits i could get my hands on while you've got everything disassembled.

Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.

[DavidBrough]

Hi Tosh,

Whist I can’t comment on the front, I do agree with Kay that the rear is very straight forward to do. I replaced all my rear rubbers about 18 months ago as the car had started to sag a bit with positive camber and a full rubber change restored the proper negative camber spec. I ended up doing the job in stages with the diff hanger giving some improvement but the major change came from new compensating spring rubbers. Are you sure you need new springs as new rubbers may do the job at the rear?

When changing the shocks and or doing anything with the rear comp spring be mindful of the brake hoses as lowering the axle can put pressure on them.


David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

[Raymond]

The first time I removed and replaced the front springs, it took a day and a half.  The second time, it took about 4 hours.  It helps to have a lift, two people, and a transmission jack.  We used the jack to support the control arm while we took things apart, then gently lowered it until the spring popped out.  I really wouldn't want to do the job without a lift.  Be careful under there, the spring is powerful.  

You should watch the video Dick Mentzer made of Jim Villers' seminar on how to do this.  It was taped at the Blacklick gathering in 2004. (Pagoda University - Blacklick) He does not follow the procedure in the BBB.  We followed his procedure and it worked really well.  Just for giggles next time we're going to try it by the book to see which is worse.  

Absolutely have all new rubber.  Cox racing sells a polyurethane kit that I will install when I get a chance.  That should stiffen things up even more than the sport springs and Koni shocks already have.  

In addition the new spring pads for the front come in four sizes and the rear come in three.  Ride height is affected by small changes.     I found that the ride height on the stiffer springs was too high even with the thinnest spring rubbers made.  If your ride height turns out to be too low, you can make up the thickness of the pads with flange gaskets.

I highly recommend the Koni Classic adjustable shocks while you're doing it.  Use them at mid-range for sport linear springs and a half turn stiffer for progressive springs.

This is an experimental hobby.  You may have to make a change, drive it for a while and make a different change.  There are a lot of opportunities to tweak the handling.  The good news is that after you do it once or twice, you'll be an expert and nothing about the steering or suspension will scare you.  

The video is on DVD and is worth the effort to find and watch.  I don't know if it's posted somewhere but there are details that the quality of internet video won't show you.  E-mail me if you can't find a copy near you.  (Naj, do you have a copy?)

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[hauser]

Ray, did you take measurements of ride height before and after your springs/shocks replacement?

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[Raymond]

Yes, I did.  I have the data in my log book which isn't handy at the moment.  I measure from the center of the star to the lower lip of the fender directly above. Right now, I have the back perfect and the front just a bit too high.  From memory, I think it's 13 & 7/8-in in back. It's about 14.5 up front.  The problem is the progressives in the back are too mushy compared to the linear springs up  front. I also made the mistake of not changing the compensator at the time.  

But, I have the new set of 5 sport springs from John Olson and I will be installing them in a month or two.  Then I get to try the height stuff all over again.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[JamesL]

Matter of interest....

height of car with top on or top off? That top weighs a lot!

[Raymond]

I always measure with top on. For me, the top off is infrequent.  Because I had a nearly full tank of fuel when I did the first measure, I try to be in that range when I check the measure.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[Bob G ✝︎]

While we are on the subject of suspension. I purchased John Olson's progressive rate springs and  put new bilsteins and redid some of the back and front bushing that go bad. The bad news is I di not calulate the height correctly because the shop I was using was solt  of loosey goosee and I wanted to make sure my car keep its orginal parts. so I with out first taking out the spring pads purchased 25 mm for front took out 32.5 rear 24 mm took out 18 mm. not oly that but they used chicken wire to tie the compensator spring to put it  back in. I could of done a better job with my eyes closed.
My question is has anyone found a way tool to compress the compensator spring? I am going to have John repowder coate it and make it nice again.
Bob Geco

[mbzse]

quote:Originally posted by Bob G

.../... has anyone found a way tool to compress the compensator spring?

Bob and Forum,
I use a device similar to what you see here, when removing or mounting the compensator spring or changing end rubber rings. Compress spring, remove support on the right (two bolts), release spring tension, remove spring. Safe and convenient  
(Note: picture is not by me, borrowed off the web)


Download Attachment: Ausgleichsfeder Comp spring removal.jpg
50.63 KB

/Hans in Sweden