o.k.... so I'm replacing my front wheel bearings.... a local shop is pressing the races in. Question to the gear-heads among you, since I don't have a ready dial indicator and set-up to measure the end play (spec is 0.01 - 0.02 mm), what is the other way to properly adjust the end play. When I used to do this on VW's and Porsches, the method was tighten to X torque, then back off 1/2 a turn... drive a bit (around the block a couple of times), then repeat after hub & spindle cools back to ambiant temperature. The check on whether the procedure was correct or not (for instance, if threads were cross threaded then the initial torque wouldn't represent the intended force on the bearings) was tested by checking the washer for ability to move it with a 6" screw-driver ... if it could barely be moved (but could be), then it was right... if it was not hard to move, then the end-play was too loose, and if it was immovable with the 6" sscrew-driver, then it was too tight. The final check was to yank back and forth on the wheel (at top and bottom after wheel with tire was remounted) and if an eensy-teensy wiggle could be detected then it was right, if none, then it was too tight, if more than an eensy-teensy amount of wiggle, then too loose.
Is there some similar set of rules for the 113's that applies to get end-play within spec's without a dial indicator?.
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport