Cabin filter

[thelews]

So, who's changed the cabin filter?  MB was way ahead of the curve with cabin (fresh air) filters in the 113 and other models of the period.  Changed mine last night at the suggestion of my 113 pro (www.blackforestllc.com), but unfortunately didn't think to document it with pictures.

John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[Richard Madison]

John:

Where is the "cabin filter" and can you give a general description of how to change it?

I'd hate to be breathing air with 40 year old dust in it...

Richard M

[Naj ✝︎]

quote:Originally posted by 280SL71

John:

Where is the "cabin filter" and can you give a general description of how to change it?

I'd hate to be breathing air with 40 year old dust in it...

Richard M

Hello Richard



You have to remove the air scoop under the windshield and the air flap in the picture to get to the air filter.
It is held in place by a large spring clip.
I'm sure there is a picture of it on this site and discussion about how to make one at home.

naj

68 280SL

[thelews]

The filter is under and forward of the fresh air damper (flap) that Naj shows.  This damper is controlled by the lever with the blue arrow.  The  filter is available from MB, I can get the part number tomorrow.  Access entails removal of the chrome from the intake cowl, three screws, two screws on the back of the cowl in the wiper shaft wells, two screws in the front of the cowl under the chrome and four screws inside in the rear of the cowl that just need to be loosened.  Then the cowl lifts off.  Then the two bolts on top of the damper and remove one bracket and then the damper can be slid out of the other side.  Lift the tab on top of the damper and it will flip open for greater access and then slip the cable wire out of the mounting point in the damper.  Off it comes.  Then you will see the filter toward the engine compartment.  It's a good time to clean up everything in there, wipe it out, clean the drain holes and treat the rubber gaskets and seals with rubber treatment to soften and preserve.  Check the heater controls to see that those dampers are opening and closing properly as well as the heater water valve under the grommet in the firewall.  The original air filter had a fabric tape wrapped around it where the damper lever mechanism rubbed on the filter so it wouldn't rip.  The new one didn't, so I wrapped a piece of duct tape around it.

I didn't try it, but perhaps the filter can be changed just by lifting the tab on the damper, rolling it open wider, and changing the filter while it's in place.  It's so easy to remove though, that I'd use the opportunity to check and clean the area.

John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[JPMOSE]

I just replaced mine three weeks ago when I had the cowl hood off.  $43 from the dealer (wholesale).  I should have just cleaned the old one, as it probably would have washed up just fine.  But once in 40 years isn't bad!  

I also replaced the seal on the intake valve of the heater core....much easier with all this apart.  The new seal is slightly thicker, requiring some more pressure when opening the water valve.  But I assume it will shrink with age and probably best to leave it alone.

I also lubricated the cowl vent seal and air flap seals with 303 Aerospace Protectant (several light coats).  This was a surprise to find all these seals to be like new.  An Oregon car that was never exposed to much sun...I am continuously amazed that the interior and the majority of rubber seals are still like new!

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1987 560SL

[thelews]

quote:Originally posted by JPMOSE



I also replaced the seal on the intake valve of the heater core....much easier with all this apart.  The new seal is slightly thicker, requiring some more pressure when opening the water valve.  But I assume it will shrink with age and probably best to leave it alone.

Are you talking about the O-ring in the water valve?  This can easily be accessed from the firewall under the grommet.

John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[JPMOSE]

Agreed John...but it is easier to do with the cowl vent cover removed...and since I had it on my to do list....

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1987 560SL

[Bob G ✝︎]

I too would like to see the disasemblie in pictures of the cabin filter. I would also like to change the o ring  on the heater valve and the rubber seal on the cowel flap.
anyone document these jobs with some pictures?

Bob Geco
1968 280SL

[JPMOSE]

Bob,

Here is a thread with pictures on the heater valve:

http://index.php?topic=6070

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1987 560SL

[abe280SL]

LOL...I have owned the car since 1990 and I just found out there is a cabin filter.  Boy, I hate to see what it looks like in there.
abe

abe
1968 280SL Auto
Signal Red w Beige Int

[gwuisman]

Look here http://www.pagodentreff.de/diskussionsforum/t1686-wassereinbruch-kommt-wasser.html#post11784 to see from post number 17 through 21 the whole process documented by me in pictures. I believe you have to (free) register in order to have access to the pics. Note: the picure with the new filter mounted, shows the wrong side up. I changed it at a later stage.

[blue230sl]

great picture, very helpful. have the filters always been that bright blue?
i opened mine up and found it intact but black....

john
64 230sl euro 4 spd
89 190e 2.6

[gwuisman]

John,

As far I have heard the MB originals were and are blue indeed. I guess that either yours has become very dirty by the years of use or the fiber piece between the frame has once been changed in a home made black one.

Gerard Wuisman