Author Topic: The Pagoda in the barn (Read 81219 times)

cascadia · « **Reply #50 on:** August 19, 2009, 19:03:15 »

I like it!

Louis · « **Reply #51 on:** August 20, 2009, 10:06:31 »

I'm glad this thread is awakened . I'm looking forward to the finished product. You did a great job of stripping it down . Keep the updates coming....

cascadia · « **Reply #52 on:** August 23, 2009, 04:36:05 »

Well, my painter came by to take a look at the car, he recommended that I pull the engine to really be able to do the job right. I agree, but whew, this is becoming a bigger job than I anticipated.

bpossel · « **Reply #53 on:** August 23, 2009, 10:36:24 »

You will be happier that the engine is out for the repaint. This was a decision that I also made. Better end result.
Looks like you "dropped" it vs "pulling" it.

I wonder if these werent originally installed this way... installed on the frt suspension and rolled under the body, then hooked up?

Bob

Louis · « **Reply #54 on:** August 23, 2009, 11:15:47 »

Quote from: cascadia on August 23, 2009, 04:36:05

Well, my painter came by to take a look at the car, he recommended that I pull the engine to really be able to do the job right. I agree, but whew, this is becoming a bigger job than I anticipated.

Well you're going the distance . It'll be worth it !!

Garry · « **Reply #55 on:** August 24, 2009, 07:58:48 »

Agree with Bob, Pull the engine out other wise you will regret it later on when the car looks great until you open the bonnet.

cascadia · « **Reply #56 on:** September 01, 2009, 02:39:07 »

....and here we are ready to go to the blasting shop, walnut shell is what they use. All of the aluminum body panels are going to another place to be dipped.

bogeyman · « **Reply #57 on:** September 01, 2009, 02:45:57 »

Clever with the wheeled dolly - will they then "rotisserie" it at the shop?

cascadia · « **Reply #58 on:** September 01, 2009, 02:53:05 »

No, I'm going to leave the underside alone, it's in good condition. Although, I guess all that would need to be removed now is the rear axle and the gas tank, but still, this is a car I originally just wanted to have as 'just a beater'. Funny how things end up!

forrestjordan · « **Reply #59 on:** September 04, 2009, 00:54:40 »

It is obvious by the number of reads and replies that probably every member and guest is some what, if not totally interested in seeing the results of your hard work and seeing the documented pictures. It is such a classic story for all who are interested in old cars, and even more so for those of us lucky folks who have a pagoda.

Thanks for sharing this interesting saga.
Forrest

Allen · « **Reply #60 on:** September 05, 2009, 03:23:07 »

What does DB190 'graphite grey' look like? I am thinking about painting my pagoda. I've been considering grey-beige metallic, but it may look too 'beige'; and DB 180 silver. I really like the metallic grey colors.

Keep us posted Bob. Thanks for sharing the details.

cascadia · « **Reply #61 on:** September 05, 2009, 03:32:11 »

Hi Allen, here are pics of DB190 Graphite Grey. Hauser's car is Grey Beige Metallic, DB728H, this is a beautiful color, a pic of his can be seen on the Technical Manual at http://www.sl113.org/wiki/DataCard/PaintCodes

cascadia · « **Reply #62 on:** September 15, 2009, 04:07:40 »

Back from the blaster's on its way to my painter. Blasting revealed a few bad spots, the front crossmember was pretty rusty at the seam, and the rear valance was bad throughout. Both parts require purchase of an inner and outer piece. I have an account with the MB dealer here in Portland, my cost on the crossmember was 150, rear valance was 470. Ouch. While I'm on the subject, blasting the body shell, jambs, trunk, soft top area and engine bay was 675, dipping the doors, hood, deck lid, soft top cover and hardtop was 920. This stuff adds up but I feel like if I've come this far I might as well do it right....

2nd picture is of a squeaky clean door after being dipped in something that is probably pretty nasty.

114015 · « **Reply #63 on:** October 01, 2009, 18:03:38 »

Congratulations Bob,

Looks great!
Peronally, I think you are doing the right way, this is the kind of treatment our cars really deserve (if necessary) and not just only "new (expensive) paint, interior and chrome parts".

The only disadvantage is that you cannot earn any money with a restoration approach like this.
Expenses sum up like ... (hell) and the car is most likely less worth after finishing the project than you invested.
But this is what our hobby and love for these motor vehicles is all about.

Ask me how I know...

Achim
(who could never believe that a simple blown M180 head gasket runs into investments far beyond 5 K €€)

cascadia · « **Reply #64 on:** October 01, 2009, 18:21:37 »

I'm keeping a pretty close watch on expenses with this car and have created an excel spreadsheet to track them. My forecast is that I will be in the car for around 19-20K when it's done, including my original purchase price of 3K. My biggest expense will be the body work and paint at 9K. One way I've saved money is by buying 2 project pagodas recently. I swapped out parts like tail-lights and trim with pieces from mine that were not as good. When I was done I sold the cars for a small profit to buyers in Europe. One of the cars even came with new, unused interior sill trim pieces ($550 for the pair) and a new uninstalled top ($550), both of these items will go on my car.

All of the disassembly, mechanical, and re-assembly I've taken on myself, so that obviously saves some money as well. Wholesale accounts with suppliers also help with costs. The car should be back on the road by Spring, I'll update this thread with what my final cost was, hopefully I won't be too far off!

cascadia · « **Reply #65 on:** January 24, 2010, 06:40:07 »

Alright, 4 months later and it's back from the paint shop. I decided on DB190, Graphite Grey. The interior of the car was originally Caviar (black), this Tex color was unique in the fact that the texture of the material was smoother than what you'd normally find in other colors. I've spoken with my upholsterer at length about this anomaly. Caviar wasn't a true black, more of a dark gray. The closest material I could find from GAHH (my preferred supplier) was Charcoal #767, I didn't want a true black. This color is from the 70's era MB cars, but had the texture I was after. They did new seat covers with the correct basket weave inserts for the 230, new heat embossed door panels, etc. Carpet will be black square weave, soft top will be black. Stage 2 of the project begins!

Jonny B · « **Reply #66 on:** January 24, 2010, 15:26:24 »

Very nice indeed, I think the color combination will suit the car well. Keep the photos coming.

thelews · « **Reply #67 on:** January 24, 2010, 15:48:30 »

Here is original Caviar Tex.

TR · « **Reply #68 on:** January 24, 2010, 17:12:03 »

Bob -- Wow, your project is really coming along. It is very enjoyable watching the progress you are making and I know your car is going to be stunning once it all comes together.

Is Burback (there in Portland) involved in the mechanicals on this project? Per your earlier recommendation I visited with Mike this past spring. He's a good guy, and thank you for that kind suggestion.

My 280SL should start the process of coming out of its winter hibernation before too long and I suspect we'll drive it to Portland once the weather is nice.

dhunter · « **Reply #69 on:** January 28, 2010, 16:52:36 »

Great story.
What a satisfying restoration this will be!

Doug

cascadia · « **Reply #70 on:** February 05, 2010, 19:28:52 »

Engine is now back in. I put on the firewall pad, accelerator linkage, and brake line BEFORE

I've installed a half dozen firewall pads and wow, what a pleasure to be able to stand in an empty engine bay to do it.

66andBlue · « **Reply #71 on:** February 05, 2010, 21:20:04 »

Bob,
that looks really nice!
Two questions:
What did you use to paint the engine and transmission?
How did you roll the engine + axle around since the wheels want to go in every direction but never together in the same direction?

cascadia · « **Reply #72 on:** February 05, 2010, 21:34:22 »

The valve cover, head and transmission are bare metal, they were thoroughly degreased and then treated with a mild acid (aluminum wheel cleaner). The block is painted with Dupli-Color High Heat semi-gloss black, I skipped doing the front. I polished the valve cover a little bit with Auto-Sol metal polish to brighten it up. And yes, wheeling the assembly around was a 2 person job, it had a mind of its own. Lining up the 8 bolt holes for the subframe bushings were a challenge, having that lift helped a lot. I used a floor jack under the transmission to help with the angle and eventually lift it up to bolt its support plate in.

Nate · « **Reply #73 on:** February 06, 2010, 20:28:51 »

Looks great Bob! What's lurking in the background? Is that a recent acquisition?

cascadia · « **Reply #74 on:** February 06, 2010, 20:48:49 »

Yes, that's a restored 1970 DB158 White-Grey 280SL with a top by Gernold, it will be on ebay in the next few days.

News:

Author Topic: The Pagoda in the barn (Read 81219 times)

Louis

bpossel

Louis

forrestjordan

Allen

TR

dhunter