Author Topic: Window Rattle  (Read 7333 times)

hands_aus

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Australia, Queensland, Brisbane
  • Posts: 1543
Window Rattle
« on: March 02, 2003, 04:33:50 »
Hey Group,
The previous owner of my car replaced the broken left hand window. It was set too high (the glass stayed outside the window seal) and the nut holding the track in alignment had worked loose (hence the rattle).
Today (Sunday) I unscrewed everything in sight on the door and the lining came off very easily.
I adjusted the limit stops for the correct height of the glass in the door seal, tightened the nut that holds the window track (lock end), then I greased both the tracks.
I also found a limit/stop adjustable nut(when winding the window up) on the winding mechanism that needed to be adjusted. This actually limits the travel of the winding handle and stops stress on the mechanism.
Some of the trim chrome strips had rivets missing so I corrected these things.
My car has been repainted but I don't know by which owner (1st or 2nd).
After finishing the adjustments I opened and closed the door many times and there was the familiar CLUNK with no rattle.
I then went for a short drive (any excuse), the car seems to be a lot quiter now, but the engine mounts etc definitely need to be replaced, maybe my next BIG job.
The right hand door does not rattle but I might check it for loose or missing screws and give it a grease.

This is a very rewarding job to do!

Bob(Brisbane,Australia)
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

Cees Klumper

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Fallbrook
  • Posts: 5721
    • http://SL113.org
Re: Window Rattle
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2003, 12:08:11 »
Did you replace the visqueen (spelling?) / plastic sheet that should be between the door panel and the door itself, for the purpose of sound insulation? I used some heavy-gauge plastic on my doors and double-sided sticking tape.
I replaced my engine and transmission mounts a few months ago and, together with a friend, we did it in a few hours, so it was not as bad as I was expecting.

'69 white 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

supergrobi

  • Guest
Re: Window Rattle
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2003, 05:24:57 »
the plastic sheet between the door lining and the door frame is used for "waterproofing" the door. it is VERY important to keep it there resp. replace it to make sure that rain water that enters the door frame does not enter the car's inside.

also, checking the small water drain holes on the bottom of the door frame is also an important task to check while the door is disassembled. check for leaves, dirt, sand, etc. if i remember it right, there are three drain holes on the bottom.

hands_aus, cees - how do you tell if your engine mouznts need to be replaced?

regards
jens

-----------------------
"if all else fails, read the f***ing manual"

280SL 1969, steelblue metallic, Euro 4sp shifter, hard/ softtop,
Becker Grand Prix Cassette Full Stereo, rear jump seat, light grey leather, luckily no headrests...

ted280sl

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, NY, New Rochelle
  • Posts: 251
Re: Window Rattle
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2003, 13:32:51 »
Bob,
  While you have the door panel off you should take a creful look at the jaws that hold the window to the track. Each of the jaws has a small screw to adjust the jaw tension on the track. Clean the track and adjust the jaws while you have it open.
Regards,
Ted 1969 280SL