Author Topic: Door adjustment question  (Read 7246 times)

66andBlue

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Door adjustment question
« on: July 29, 2008, 13:08:13 »
Hello all,
I would like to get some tips on how to adjust the door. My driver side door is hanging too much at the non-hinged end. It straightens out only when closed - not to good for the lock!
I assume I need to adjust the bolts in the hinges at the door and not the chassis, or perhaps both?
What is the easiest way to do this?
Thanks!
« Last Edit: July 29, 2008, 13:09:54 by 66andBlue »
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

al_lieffring

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Re: Door adjustment question
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2008, 15:16:51 »
Alfred wrote to my home e-mail on this topic, he suggested that I post my reply here on the forum where he asked the same question.

Hi Alfred

There are eight bolts holding the two hinges.

The hinge is at a 90 degree angle when the door is closed, this allows the door to be adjusted on all three axis by selecting the correct bolts to loosen.

The bolts that attach the hinges to the body adjust the height, the depth of the door to the surface of the fenders and the angle of the door from top to bottom.

The bolts that attach the hinge to the door are for adjusting height, the angle of the door from front to rear and the end gaps between the fenders and the door.

The first thing to do when adjusting the door to the opening is to roll the window down, then remove the door catch from the door jamb. You want the door to close and fit to the opening without the window or latch holding it up or down.

Next I would adjust the front of the door to fit flush with the front fender and line it up vertically to where the trim lines on the door match the lines on the front fender, using the bolts that hold the hinge to the body. I usually take one hinge loose at a time. Make a small adjustment and then only re-tighten one of the two bolts.

Next I would adjust the angle front to rear of the door so the back of the door matches up with the trim lines on the rear fender. Then adjust the gap so the front and the rear of the door are equal.

Reinstall the striker in the door jamb then  place a strip of masking tape over the hole that the cone on the door latch fits into. Place a dab of grease on the tip of the cone. Close the door to where the cone just touches the tape and adjust the striker to where the grease leaves a spot on the tape over the center of the hole. Once everything is lined up the way you want, tighten all the bolts on the hinges and the striker.

Changing the position of the door will also change the fit of the window glass, hopefully it won't require readjusting the glass, but you will need to check.

I am sure there are more specific questions that you will have, but first try making some small adjustments, and experiment to see what happens with each adjustment that you make. Some duck tape along the edges of the fenders might be a good idea, to prevent chipping the paint if you should set the gap too narrow.

Al

Mike Hughes

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Re: Door adjustment question
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2008, 17:44:53 »
Great post, Al!  This should go into the "Wiki!"
- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
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66andBlue

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Re: Door adjustment question
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2008, 22:58:36 »
Thanks Al.
I have added the information in the Wiki manual.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2008, 23:52:19 by 66andBlue »
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)