Looking to get a 230 SL - Need pointers...

[Andres G]

Hello everyone, my name is Andres and I'm interested in acquiring a 230 SL with a manual transmission. I've driven this car before but only on few ocassions. I am more familiar with the latter model (I believe it is the 107) since I had one as a daily driver for over 3 years about 8 years ago.

I am married with no kids and no plans to have any yet, so I believe I can juggle work, wife and a lover (SL) if I were to find the right one.

I intend to get the car to drive it ocassionaly, probably on weekends and for short distances, no more than 200 mile radius from where we live. That is to say, I do not want to have a collector's car or a garage queen, but neither do I want to get one that will require twice it's cost in parts and maintenance and/or will spend 90% of it's time on a lift.

I have average mechanical skills (I can replace a drive axle, brake pads, a transmision and tool around with suspension components, not sure I can tackle engine rebuilds or more complex type stuff) and have access to a fully stocked garage where I could potentially park the car if some major work needs to be done on it.

What I'm looking for is clues and keys, those very little details to look for in a car when buying one, that will make the difference between an easy to live with type car and a true pain and heart ache one... the kind of stuff that fellow owners and enthusiasts would know about, better than anybody else.

I would also appreciate comments and suggestions regarding color  combinations that are more common and easy to run into, as well as those to be avoided. I preffer beige or black interiors vs. red or blue, and like sublte exterior colors like silver, white, arabian gray or beige vs. red, light blue or green, but not sure of what the color combos were originally.

What should I expect to pay for a car in good/very good contidion? What year should I go for? Any accessories I should look for in particular?

Finally, I would rather get an euro-version car since I'm temporarily assigned to the US for work and I'd like the opportunity to take this car back home with me when the assignment is over. Still, I could also take a US car, just may not have the best resale value when taken abroad... Any suggestions in this field? I know the SL maintains its value if well cared for but how true is this fact?

Thanks in advance for all the feedback offered.

Kind regards,
Andres G

[Douglas]

Andres,

This is probably the best buyer's guide online for a Pagoda SL:

http://silverstarrestorations.com/113SL.htm

Good luck. Let us know how your hunt progresses.

[Richard Madison]

The most common exterior colors are the reds and whites...these two color families account for about 50% of Pagodas. Other colors like Sand Beige, Gray Beige, and Tunis Beige Metallic, as examples, are on only about 1 or 2% of cars...also not common are some of the blues.

Here's a posting about car colors: http://index.php?topic=7892

Euro version cars are not common in the US, probably less than 10%.

You will also find fewer 230SL's for sale than 280SL's...230SL's seem to have a slightly lower sales price than 280SL's but this depends on the individual car.

The prime price determinate is condition...does it have the original engine and major components, does it need part or all new paint, interior condition, engine condition.

Very important to look for rust in all the usual places...many posts here about rust.

Options were not really important in these cars as most were sold "loaded" with power brakes, power steering, radio, clock...and in later USA cars: headrests, bumper guards, hazard flashers.

Other auto manufacturers offered engine options in different sizes, etc. Not Mercedes, all Pagodas of a period received the same engine.

A major option was Auto or Manual transmission...this was and is a personal choice with strong advocates on both sides of the gear shift.

Another option was Leather or MBTex seats. Opinions vary: the leather fans say leather is rich, natural, and "proper" for these cars; the MBtex crowd says: leather splits, dries, and has to be "fed", while MBtex seems to last nearly forever. This option does not affect price today.

You seem to be looking for a "clean driver". Prices are all over the lot but a clean driver might be found for say $20,000 or maybe $30,000.

hemmings.com might show some price ranges...Ebay is difficult for prices since many ebay cars do not reach the Reserve Price and others start at an unrealistic high price...and may be best not to get involved with an Ebay item unless you can look at the car "in person".

Good hunting,

Richard M, NYC

[waqas]

quote:Originally posted by 280SL71

The prime price determinate is condition...does it have the original engine and major components, does it need part or all new paint, interior condition, engine condition.

I'm not convinced that having matching numbers on the engine is such a big deal (besides cars in condition 1). I've seen a few examples fetch decent prices despite having incorrect engine numbers. (just as long as it has the correct engine type M127/129/130 for the particular car 230/250/280 SL)

Matching engine numbers is more of an issue with various American cars of the sixties which came in various engine capacities.

In my view, matching body panel numbers carries much more weight.

The other issues Richard mentions are far more important: complete and correct components, does it need part or all new paint, absence of rust, interior condition, engine condition, etc.

[Andres G]

Douglas,
Thanks a lot for that link. I have already printed a copy and read through it trying to soak as much of the info as possible.

Richard and Wagas (sory, I don't know your name),
I truly value the information you guys offer. Forums and enthusiasts like these are so helpful and valuabe for someone on the look just like me.

As for the results of the hunt, so far I've began what I'll define as "stage 1: Research". In that spirit, I drove to Ketchum, OK today (about 1:30 hs drive from Northwest Arkansas where I live) to check out the car in this listing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AVRI&viewitem=&item=200243370931&rd=1

I think the term "rust bucket" would be something insulting... to the bucket, of course. The seller uncooperative to say the least. He was not willing to disclose anything about the car and quite frankly, I pitty the poor guy who ends up buying it on e-bay, as he described it to me as an 8.5 on a 1 to 10 scale before I drove over. My personal calification would be a 5 or maybe a 6 on that same scale (would fit under a 4 in the scale from Silverstar)

I found significant rust through below the dirver and passenger footwells, I'm talking see-through type here. The paint job on it was horrible, with filler showing through on many places, as well as dripping and cracking in many places, overspray everywhere on the engine. Bubbling on the fenders, around the headlights, on the bonnet... Honestly, just a really bad paint job and metalwork.

The hardtop was stuck in place and only one lever actually worked, so there was no way to remove it to check the condition of the soft top. The interior was missing several pieces and the wood panels were in sub-optimal shape.

The engine was tough to startup (this was the only thing he mentioned about it when I called) and idled a little rough, but otherwise ran smooth, without any strange noise nor did send smoke through the exhaust. Still, I did not even want to drive it, as the overall shape of the car was far from what I'd be looking for.

I still gave him an offer though, I thought about 10K for a 45.000 mile car that needs a lot of work would be reasonable. He turned on his feet and closed the door in front of my face without even replying...

Research will continue. I've already figured out what I want is a 2 or 3 point car, no less than that. Also, I've been able to talk a friend into a potential co-ownership (he's already got a couple of collectable/driver cars and would be willing to get into this type) although I think he may have talked me into the co-ownership.  

Anyway, please keep the suggestions and information coming. I definitely will want to see many more cars before I buy mine.

Thanks again
Andres G

PS: Thanks to Scott as well who sent me an e-mail with info on a potential buy.