Starting on engine electrical need advice

[BaronYoungman]

I was going to start by cleaning the fuse box (pix#1) with the electrical cleaner and toothbrush(pix#2) then replacing all the fuses and reinstalling the cover.  After that I was wondering is there a cover that should be over the open fuses(pix#3 near the expansion tank and pix #4 by the brake booster) Also on (pix#4) what is the other fuse for and what color should it be?  On pix #5 that is under where the hood strap mounts to the body, and I wanted to know what should be attached to the other side, as you can see mine is blank on the side closest to the driver the far side having 2 wires attached.  Lastly my coil has all these attachments on top of it Pix#6 IS THAT RIGHT?

Sorry a lot of questions....but I am spending my whole weekend on this, SUMMER IS ESCAPING and I so want to drive my car!

Download Attachment: electrical1.jpg
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Download Attachment: electrical2.jpg
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Download Attachment: electrical3.jpg
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Download Attachment: electrical4.jpg
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Download Attachment: elect5.jpg
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Download Attachment: electrical6.jpg
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[scoot]

I believe that all of the "auxilary fuse boxes" or accessory fuse boxes have covers.  I do not know what the fuses power however.

[114015]

Hm,

The usual grime of a 30+++ years old engine bay ... :oops:
It's sad to see that the paintshop did so little pay attention to proper covering of the engine's periphery, paint dust sprayed all over. Especially sad that they did not tape your very nicley preserved firewall insulation mat.  
OK, let's stop that fuzz now [:0] and become technical ...

The fuse box in pic #3 is most likely the one for the radio, at least it is very often located there. The one in pic #4 is for some auxiliary equipement, maybe heated rear window, rear fog light or something like that. Don't know whether or not there "must" be a second fuse... Are there wires attached to the ends? Then yes, there should be a fuse. Otherwise not.
Pic #5 shows the ballast resistor, yes there should be very well a wire at each end. I don't have the details of the wiring diagram in my mind (although I should... :? ) but there is one in the owner's manual.

Scott is right, the auxiliary fuse boxes should have a cover, either made of plastic and "clipped" in or made of bakelite and attached with a screw like the main fuse box lid. Best is look for a used box as parts donor.
 

Achim
(w/ dirtier engine bay)

[graphic66]

Clean everything. That is how you will find many things to fix. Clean every spot you can. Get all your cleaning supplies, Soap, water, engine degreaser, and a lot of brakekleen. As for the fuse box, take out all the fuses and use some fine sandpaper and clean the contacts and the fuses. You need to carefully scrape off the oxidation right where the tip of the fuses touch. Clean the tips of your old fuses, if they are still good reuse them. Get some silicone dielectric compound and put some on the end of each fuse before installation, give them a twist when installing. That contact cleaner you have wont do much good, you need to scrape the corrosion off somehow where the fuses touch. Two phillips head screws in the fuse box will release the fuse box so you can get a better look at it. Unhook the battery before starting to avoid sparks while working. Clean it up and then get back to us with the results.

[seattle_Jerry]

You might try Krud Kutter, chomp pro, oops or ppg has a graffitti remover product. One of those might work getting the overspray off the firewall pad without destroying it.